The Best Regimen to Treat Acne Scars From Home, According to an Esthetician
Updated: May 10
Using the cult French brand, Biologique Recherche.
With much of the country — ok, world — under some form of lockdown, we won't be making it in to see our dermatologists or estheticians anytime soon. This is a problem for those of us that get regular dermatological treatments, from peels, to laser treatments, to micro-needling, and more. Hence the growing beauty trend that is DIY beauty.
Acne scars refer to the lingering marks left behind on the complexion due to inflammation following breakouts. Hyper-pigmentation on the skin is a difficult skin ailment to treat outside of the dermatologist's office because it requires time and dedication. Aggressive in-office options can have transformative results quickly — like the high-powered Cosmelan peel, pigmentation-targeting IPL, a gentler resurfacing laser like Clear and Brilliant, or full-on fraxel (which can be painful and requires downtime). Outside of the derm's office, however, fading acne scars takes trust in and patience with the products you have selected.
Because acne scars can also do a real number on self-confidence — so much so that I recently wrote this article on FabFitFun about the best skincare products to treat them — fading scars is important to those of us that suffer from them. When searching for the most efficient at-home regimen, there's a case to be made for embracing a skincare philosophy, rather than just a single product. To achieve results as quickly as possible, an interlocking regimen from a respected skincare line could be the best bet. Why? Because high quality skincare lines are built upon cohesive skincare philosophies that yield synergistically functioning products.
Estheticians are like alchemists when it comes to unraveling the secrets of their favorite skincare lines. A good esthetician doesn't just understand the skin, she develops expertise in the model of treatments she subscribes to. Drawing from experience, she can recommend an entire regimen based on her understanding of the active ingredients, familiarity with the products, and experience using the products on her clients' different skin types.
"Acne scarring is really common if you have combination, oily skin, or if, at this stressful time, you are randomly experiencing breakouts," says Mariam Saprichyan, esthetician and co-owner of the Kariné Kazarian Spa in New York. She is also a Wellness Ambassador for the renowned French skincare line, Biologique Recherche.
Of the many skincare lines on the market, Biologique Recherche is one of the most respected. I have personally noticed that estheticians that work with BR products believe in the brand to their core. My esthetician in Paris, Pauline, praises their magical results, which she says are achieved while respecting the integrity of the skin. Along with innovative and effective active ingredients, their product line emphasizes anti-pollution and skin barrier-protective formulas — ideal for city-living, sensitive skin, and holistic beauty fans. They are best known for their cult-favorite toners, the Lotion P50 line, which boasts fans as varied as celebrities, to beauty editors, to everyday skin enthusiasts.
To know Biologique Recherche's line like the back of your hand is to be privy to an elite — and respected — school of skincare knowledge. As Saprichyan explains, since we are not leaving home and exposing ourselves to the sun, there are a number of products from the line to safely clear up acne scars from home. Below you will find an esthetician-recommended skincare regimen for clearing up acne scars using Biologique Recherche products.
[Note: This regimen was first shared on Biologique Recherche USA's Instagram.]
"Of course BR is known for Lotion P50," she says. "I would say that I have seen the best results from Lotion P50 1970." This version of the toner contains Phenol, considered extra-appropriate for city-dwellers. The added anti-pollution protection is ideal for hyper-pigmentation since research reveals that pollution is a cause of hyper-pigmentation on the skin. This toner is used twice per day after cleansing and helps with surface brightening as well as retexturizing scarring.
If you have never used one of the toners before, I would recommend beginning with a gentler version than full-blown P50. Lotion P50W is the version created for sensitive and reactive skin types, while Lotion P50V is the slightly less intensive version of Lotion P50. You can start with either of these to give your skin time to adjust, building up a tolerance before jumping right in to using full-strength P50. Note that P50W is the toner that celebrity esthetician Candace Marino recommends using after performing a DIY self-extraction.
"If you have any active flare ups, it's always good to use Complexe Iribiol," Saprichyan advises. You can apply the tincture, which contains Zinc and Salicylic acid, like a spot treatment onto active breakouts in order to help dry up the excess of sebum and treat inflammation. This serum can also be used in your oiliest areas like an everyday treatment, if, say, your T-zone is prone to excess shine.
"If you have a scar that is pretty fresh, I recommend using the Placenta Serum," Saprichyan says, adding that it works particularly well along with the Creme Placenta. She notes that the serums are essentially more concentrated treatments of the specific active ingredients, so if you're choosing between the creme and the serum, go for the serum. Anfisa-founder Aly Korchemniy uses this serum as an under-eye brightener against dark circles.
"But to speed it up," she adds, "use both." The creme contains the same placenta protein that is present in the serum. It is quite healing; applying it is reminiscent of how epidermal growth factor quickly repairs the skin. It's healing, anti-inflammatory, and great for fading fresh scars while they're still red.
This is considered a targeted serum that helps to regenerate the skin cells. It is a more intensive antioxidant treatment for scarring and pigmentation that contains exfoliating and hydrating, multi-tasking ingredients.
"It really helps to even out the complexion," Mariam notes, sharing that it is also a great treatment for post-acne texture, like pitted scarring. The cream contains moisturizing factors along with a fruit acid complex that will help resurface the skin over the course of a month. It is allegedly ultra-brightening, which makes sense as Renée Rouleau DIY Triple Berry Smoothing Peel, also powered by a medley fruit-derived acids, is one of the best glow-getting products of all time.
Unless you have sensitive skin, Mariam recommends using this mask with a pinch of baking soda. You can use the balancing mixture as a spot treatment or a 15-20 minute mask for active flare ups of acne. This is a personal favorite mask that once had a three month waiting list in the United States, hence I like to keep it stocked at all times. Tip: Sometimes I spritz on one of their floral face mists, L’Eauxygenante, to wet and loosen the mask before rinsing.
You can also mix equal parts Masque Vivant with Masque VIP 02 and apply it to the face for a facial-like experience. The oxygenating mask leaves you with a visible glow using the brand's proprietary oxygenating complex that soothes, repairs, and enhances the complexion. Pop it in the fridge and then leave it on for 15-20 minutes. It is especially soothing when used to help heal sunburn.
Want to tweak your skincare regimen? Here is a skincare line founder's skincare regimen for sensitive, acne-prone skin.
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